Matt's blog

"This is a Fowler 4F..."

2012-02-21T19:20:00.001Z

Happy 21st to me...

2012-02-19T13:15:00.001Z

When I wrote last year's posts, I commentated on "what my 21st will bring." Well, roughly in order..

Saturday morning (and early afternoon) I spent at the Mountsorrel Railway laying track. Needless to say, the day started of damp. Then it started with a bit of drizzle, gradually becoming heavy rain and finally hail.

Still, a lot of work was done and 3 panels of track were laid (and mostly completed with fixtures/fittings) and a lot of planting took place. As I went with my dad, he made the suggestion that we hold off going again till the weather is better. Personally, I agree with him - largely because of my muscle aches!

After returning home (and changiong from the soggy clothing) I spent a portion of time gaming, before getting ready for a meal out at a Chinese buffet. Saturday night wasn't a good one for me as I kept waking up, so I watched some of the excellent anime "Ghost In The Shell: Stand Alone Complex" (2nd Gig).

Sunday started off with a visit to Warley MRC's open day. A quick nose round (picked up a few ideas) and I left £20 lighter with a Airfix 4F in tow!

Returning home, I spent the time inbetween returning home and Sunday roast playing the new Featured Episode in Star Trek Online. Sunday roast consumed, OI returned to my bedroom and began having a nose (and a tweak) at my latest prize.

Is Britain last for everything?

2012-02-12T20:05:00.000Z

As unusual as it sounds, is the UK left out of Anime?

I was thinking about this myself from all the various comments on Youtube and on Amazon. Take, for example, ToraDora and Working!! Both of these series have attracted a wide variety of fans, yet not once have I seen anything about these being released in the UK.

The video below (which is the US release advert for Working!!), part of the latest comment? "We anime fans in the UK never get any of the good releases. I always have to import. ~_~"

And, to be fair, I myself have had to order a few series from 'foreign countries' through Otaku Castle as Region 0's so I can watch them here. Windows uses Region protection too, just like DVD players, so neither can you watch them on your PC either).

Partly to blame are the Japanese companies producing the anime. Rosario + Vampire, for example, had it's US release put back twice because of licensing issues at the Japanese end; another might be the thought that Brit's don't buy into that sortof thing.

Of course, it might just be I'm too used to the choice and availability with model trains and their parts and lifting that and thinking the same can be applied to anime, it's statues, etc.

Coupling issues...

2012-02-09T19:40:00.000Z

The boxcar on the left is an Accurail New Haven kit; the one on the right is a second-hand Union Pacific one from C&BT shops.

The New Haven one is riding on Tichy Trains milk/express bogies, to encourage a bit of variety, and as such the bogie points have been filed down to match the rest of the underframe.

Still, that puts me in a bit of a sticky place. Even with the original bogies, it still rides too high. Then came the idea of trying a 'welded' short under-shank Bachmann E-Z Mate coupler, i.e. changing it to an 'over' shank.

Well, it certainly fits, though being only a short one meant there was no swing as the coupler was right up against the housing. Still, it proves there's hope yet.

Dev Tools (part 2)

2012-02-09T19:30:00.000Z

How do you make a tunnel entrance in Railworks completely scenic'ed without a gaping hole?

Simple: use two (or more) tunnel decals. It might seem a bit fiddly, but the flexibility of a large one for the base and a smaller one for the top allows you to place the tunnel entrace without a single gap between the tunnel entrance and the scenery.

It might take some while to get right, but it certainly beats fiddling around with trees!

TOR Vs STO Article 3: My Powers & Me

2012-02-06T20:07:00.001Z

TOR's "Mercenary" Bounty Hunter power list
shows the abilites and upgrades available.

As I mentioned in part 1 there are numerous classes to both games. In The Old Republic, your powers are both path (such as Bounty Hunter) and one of the two sub-type (Mercenary, for example); you will have a generic set for the former which applies to both and a specific set for the latter.

These get added as you level up and old ones upgraded; for example, you can upgrade "Unload Blasters" from "Rank 1" when you acquire it at about level 10 and by the time you reach level 28 you're on level 4, and packing quite a nasty punch with it.

Star Trek Online, on the other hand, has a seperate approach. Each career path (Engineering, Science and Tactical) gains a few select Ground skills, but most skills come from 'kits'. Each 'kit' graces you with 'powers' beyond the Mk I version (going 2, 3 and finally 4 powers by the time you reach Captain) all to different ranks and abilities.

STO: Tactical Kits at
Rear Admiral Upper Half rank

For example, 'Bunker Fabrication' allows engineers to create turrets, generators and suchlike to protect themselves and increase their resiliance. 'Medic' allows Science players to heal themselves and their team mates. 'Fire Team' for Tactical players grants Tactical players enhancing skills to improve weapon damage and grant them the ability to throw plasma grenades.

But should you wish to change from defensive to offensive (in Engineering and Science roles mainly) it's merely a case of swapping kits. From what I have seen, all Tactical kits buff weaponry or offer grenade throwing abilites, with no real defence boosting abilities.

So, which is better?

It's a hard choice. The Old Republic's is more suited for it's specific story-line role. The fact you have 2 different sub-types (unlocked at rank 10) both with seperate abilities makes it a simple progression. Star Trek Online's more kit-based style offers more flexability at the expense of fewer 'personal' skills.

We must also remember that Star Trek Online has a "skill tree" that buffs certain powers and stats; Shield Emitters, for example, imrpoves your shield abilities. There is a similar system in The Old Republic but it is not as wide ranging (there are no space skills, for example) nor as 'fluid' at STOs, as it focuses on things such as improving heat dissipation, weapon damage, debuff against enemy attacks, etc.

Space wise, The Old Republic doesn't have proper space combat (it's currently a tunnel sim where you mainly control weapons fire) so you can't really compare space combat.

I'm Coking With It....

2012-02-04T16:20:00.000Z

I recently took out my soldering iron out for a whirl, and discovered the tips were in somewhat dirty state.

Out came a glass and a can of Pepsi-Max. Said can was opened, the tips gently placed inside (to a slight chinking sound) and some of the contents poured over the tip and the metal shim designed as "padding".

I dunked both tips I own in, one of which had both the tip and metal shim stuck together, and left them for a few hours while I watched some Ghost In The Shell: Stand Alone Complex. I came back, suitably entertained and one was in a usable state, so it got taken out, dried and lightly sanded and I went away soldering.

After I had finished the first lot of soldering (and as it was nearing lunchtime) I turned the iron off and managed to prise apart the tip and it's innder padding, and returned them to the glass of carbonated beverage. After a second batch was completed later on, and after the iron had cooled, the tip I used was also taken off (and the shim taken out) and they were added back to the glass.

Just must remember that if I'm thirsty, I'm not thirsty enough to pick up the glass. A trip to A & E might be difficult to explain...

Today's Picture: Imitation Poster (version 2)

2012-02-03T22:18:00.000Z

A much better screenshot (and no after effects save for the surround and cropping/resizing) at a different position.

Much more to do scenery wise, but not... lacking the previous version, which seemed a bit... loco based.

Today's Picture: Imitation BR Poster

2012-01-29T13:05:00.001Z

The route from Railworks needs more detail but I thought this was simply too good an oppertunity to miss.

Today's Picture: Galaxy-X outside K7

2012-01-25T20:39:00.000Z

Outside K7, the USS Ten Forward awaits to begin shuttling crew off for crew exchanges.

TOR Vs STO Article 2: Difficulty & Running Repairs

2012-01-25T20:33:00.002Z

The 1960's 'Connie' fighting Orions.

In Star Trek Online, you have 3 difficulty modes: Normal, Advanced and Elite, with the STF (Special Task Forces) offered in Normal and Elite variants only.

Star Wars: The Old Republic, on the other hand, doesn't; instead, you have different level enemies, and your abilities affect them differently.

'Weak' or 'Normal' enemies can be knocked down by the Bounty Hunter's "Death From Above" AoE (Around Enviroment) missile attack, or as time (and your level) advances, may completely even kill these enemies.

However, the harder the enemy, the harder it is to kill them. Some of the 'elite' enemies may have as much as 5 times your health stat. And then TOR has "Heroic" or "Group" areas, which you venture into at your peril.

But there is a big difference between the two in terms of "permanent damage". In Star Trek Online, you sustain 'injuries' that may be 'fixed' by either 'Regenerators' or 'Components'; of which there are 3 levels: Minor, Major and Critical. But there's never any need to enter a star base if you've stocked up. Save for emptying your inventory, or changing ships, you may never need to visit a star base for what may be several days in gaming time.

However, with The Old Republic, ANY battle inflicts damage (Space is unaffected, I believe) and you will need to get this repaired to be at peak efficiency. Any vendor will do this, and the cost is minimal, depending how frequently. But it's there; and, if a piece ever reaches "0" 'integrity', it will fail and break, and you will lose it.

Now, when in Star Trek (save for Voyager) did you ever see a ship return to 100% status without visiting a star base when it had suffered enough damage that there was gouges in the hull and a leaking nacelle?

TOR Vs STO Article 1: Where's My Interaction?

2012-01-10T22:36:00.003Z

The Bounty Hunter T5 "Mantis" leaving 'Dromound Kaas'

What TOR excels at: engaging the player.

Yes, TOR (Star Wars: The Old Republic) has a bigger budget, bigger development team and so forth...but you can see that in the game; full, interactive, cinematographic NPC interactions, ships leaving and arriving on planets and space stations with rendering to make it look like it was lifted from the film reels left on the cutting room floor.

So the battle may be one sided in terms of overall "glossiness", to use such a term. But it's more than that. In TOR, there are 8 different classes in total (each with 2 sub-classes), 4 for each faction, plus various species for these. With Star Trek Online, there's 3 classes (as in 3 for both factions) and the various species. But this is really where the stats listing ends.

You see, your character in STO is nothing more than a few combat stats and pixels on your screen. Nothing changes in the gampley if you play a Vulcan or a Human or Trill for Starfleet; likewise, a Klingon or Nausicaan for the Klingon Defence Force. Which is, in someways, why STO is failing.

In TOR, your character has a semi-unique storyline; your character has a path laid out for them, but if you play a Jedi Knight you have a different role in the Universe than a Jedi Counsellor. But the storylines also crossover at certain points, both cross-profession and faction.

What makes it even more glaring is that the only true, career specific "missions" in Star Trek Online are merely objectives or optional side-bits that don't normally affect the mission outcome. The only thing unique to your characters career path are abilities.

Reliving the 60's Star Trek on Drozona during
the "Devidian" Weekly Series.

While it may be 'canon' that Starfleet captains should be able to do almost any mission assigned to them, in real terms, there would be specific missions that required specific qaulities, such as extra scientific analytical skills or extra cargo space as found on ships like the Enterprise-D; something which seems to have been completely overlooked.

A review of the stats, Jan 2012

2012-01-06T20:10:00.002Z

Posting stats
To date, the most popular post was my review of the Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0., way back in April last year, with an astounding 105 views. While on the subject, in 5th is my review of the coaches to go with it.

Unsuprisingly, and most likely due to the quickness of reporting it, the second biggest was my report on Warley 2011, with 96 views.

Suprisingly, third place goes to one of the smallest posts, "Dev tools", with 80. The remaining posts include 2 from my articles on Star Trek Online going "free to play".

Viewing stats

Countries first, it's the United Kingdom with 1049. Second is the US by 844. Third is Germany with 484 and, suprisingly, 4th and 5th are Russia and Latvia respectively.

Firefox is the most used browser to view my site at 45%, unsuprisingly followed by Internet Explorer at 34%, and in third by Google Chrome at 10%.

Operating System wise, Windows is the clear winner with 90%, followed by Macs at 4% and Linux users at 2%. Suprisingly, someone running Windows NT 6.1 has viewed this site 3 times, nudging Blackberry out the way by a whole single viewing.

Referral stats, i.e. where people have nagivated from to this site, is unusual: 402 are from the Star Trek Online forums, 467 from 3 Google search engines (.com, .co.uk and .au) and 56 from the delightful Facebook.

Happy 2012 to you! And a review of the current status.

2012-01-06T19:44:00.003Z

Yes, the "year of doom" is upon us, and there's going ot be a rather large party on December 22nd due to the world not ending on December 21st.

As it's the new year, and partly inspired by Phil's Workbench, I too have had a makeover, though more a slight alteration and adjustments rather than a complete overhaul; all that's really changed is the fonts used (which now should look better on lower screen resolutions - editor); feel free to tell me if they cause your grief and I'll try and find something more suitable.

And as it's the new year, I shall be once again updating the "what exhibitions I am visiting" and archiving the 'Winter' period for 2011. And the 'end of year' post wouldn't be complete without this:

Dev tools....

2011-12-26T13:24:00.002Z

Creating a route in Railworks 2012 is a bit "hit and miss".

For example, trying to create scenery that adheres to track on a gradient isn't as easy as peoplee think, as there isn't a tool to bing the scenery to the track.

Signals fail to work correctly. I drop and place many a signal, for them to only work in certain conditions or when a train is running the wrong way. How many sessions of testing I have done just to check the signals work...

And the platforms are the worse, though I have found a neat trick; by selecting 'easements' and 'snap to network', you can place one section that connects to the straight track, then have it create a nice stright section, which you can then move into place next to the track.

Gluing the station..

2011-12-10T10:08:00.000Z

Finally I have got round to gluing my station together. The last post on these was way back in October so you can tell progress has been slow.

Both of these buildings have been modified in someway. The 'waiting room' (red brick) has had the roof overhang removed for a good 2/3rds of the length of the side. The white station building has had it's canopy removed, the roof trimmed and any 'proud' decorations (window arches, etc.) removed or severely reduced.

Anyway, the 'waiting room' was given a healthy dollop of UHU Power and pushed against the offices, and a rubber band heaved on (tighter the better) and the whole lot was stuck on a flat surface, with my soldering iron stand being used as an attempt to keep them as apart as possible. It as then I realised the wall of the waiting room isn't straight (one end being thicker than the other.

Oh well. Adds a touch of realism.

Something to brighten your day,,,

2011-12-04T13:19:00.005Z

Copied from the NGS West Midland Newsletter, Attributed to Val Crossley BRMNA:

FIRST, never marry a railway modeller if it can possibly be avoided. Those of us ‘in the know’, so to speak, issue dire warnings of the atrocities and years of neglect in your future if you succumb to the innumerable charms of a true ‘RM’. He may initially appear quite normal, capable of executing all the expected social niceties, in some instances even managing to hold down a steady job. His friends and family, well most of them at least, will provide no clues as to the deep dark secrets in the soul of your betrothed. But, if you are alert and wary, the telltale signs will reveal themselves.

For example, does he sometimes disappear into his garage for hours on end without explanation, and emerge smelling of solder? Is there a door that is never unlocked, which according to the house plan leads to a room the size of a warehouse? Has he ever told his doctor that his blood type is N or OO? Have you ever discovered a miniature newsagent in his pocket? Does he carry on a suspiciously frequent correspondence with mysterious British or Global contacts, perhaps receiving intriguing anonymous brown paper packages from overseas? Is he on a first name basis with customs officials or delivery drivers?

If your prospective mate exhibits any of these symptoms, it is quite possible that this steadily progressive disease - and it IS a disease – may already be irreversible. Alas, you must decide before it is too late for you, whether you can find fulfilment as the wife of a man stricken by RMD (Railway Modeller Disease). You must resign yourself to the prospect of years of Saturday nights with your nose tucked in a book, listening to the steady hum of locomotives in your garage, and also to the prospect of all manner of strange men coming and going from your basement or attic until the wee hours, expecting tea and biscuits or beer and sandwiches at regular intervals. You will acquire a whole new vocabulary consisting of words such as points, couplings, drag beams and loading gauge, with which you will be unable to converse in your former social circle. The money earmarked for the house redecoration will go instead on rolling stock. You may spend your honeymoon in Blaenau Ffestiniog.

Does it seem a harsh life? There are bright spots! My husband is fond of reminding me – usually in the middle of an icy silence following eight successive missed dinners – that it keeps him out of the pub, which, I suppose, is a bit like keeping an alcoholic out of an opium den by installing a bar in your front room. He also reminds me that only rarely has he leapt out of bed at 3am in order to commit to paper a brilliant idea for a new layout or a revolutionary (groan!) turntable mechanism. Then there is the pleasure of commiserating with other railway modeller wives, easily recognisable by their inability to identify their own husbands in a crowd. (In fact, this difficulty may be overcome by having all the husbands shout “Leave the tea just outside the door” in suitably muffled tones.

Is it too late for you, as it is for me? We must be realistic and gauge (groan again!) our small successes accordingly. Forget the fancy romantic dinners – make full use of your microwaves and slow cookers. Do charity work, or better yet, open a lucrative railway modelling supplies shop. If you can manage to get his attention long enough, have children (but please try to keep them out of the layout room). Although railway modeller husbands may show evidence of sporadic bursts of domesticity, accept with dignity the fact that the duties of running the household may fall to you. Learn to cope with roof repairs and putting a new engine in the car. Be eternally grateful for the fact that if there is little room in the RM’s life for a wife, there is considerably less room for a string of mistresses. Try to remain unruffled when the toddler your husband sends home to the blue house on the corner is your own.

Above all, never denigrate the joys of train operation by making disparaging remarks about ‘boys playing trains’. This is the most unforgivable of sins and might irreparably damage your relationship. Enjoy the moments out of each day when you DO have his attention, and remind yourself that it is quality, that counts, not quantity. Remember also that there is undeniably ‘something about trains’ that is keeping your husband as happy an and enthusiastic and as full of life as the day you met.

That, believe it or not, is what makes it all worthwhile.

Article: Star Trek Online F-2-P - Part 4: To Boldly Go?

2011-12-02T16:52:00.004Z

Engage!

The free-to-play build (version) of Star Trek Online is now live on Holodeck, the main game server.

When you log in....
You will get attacked by "New Officer" and DOFF system 'missions' that will spurt out a variety of bridge and duty officers at you (unless your a Vice Admiral, in which case, you'll simply get the DOFF ones).

You will also need to Respec (reskill) your character, though this is completely free. VAs will not need to run missions to gain any skill points as they were at maximum on the old system.

When you play..
..if you can play due to all the downtime, expect bugs. Errors. And lag (and not the boiler stuff). Enemies that are in front of you running down corridors that are behind you, camera angles that jitter, and lag that forces you to restart the client even if all you've done is log in.

If I sound a bit...dismissive...that's becuase a lot of these issues have been on Tribble (the test server) at some point during testing. Worse, there are issues in the game which weren't even in either the previous version of the current F2P version when it was on the test server.

They also have a "Q Session" in progress with an XP (eXperience Points) boost...and the bonus is unclaimable by me on the KDF side.

And what about the players?
Well, all those nice Tribbles you got from testing on the Tribble test server are still available to you for free. But they are also now purchasable, single use only 'items' that if you discard (or lose), you have to buy a replacement.

Ships, thankfully, remain an account wide unlock. Subscribers (lifers or monthly payers) get access to the Foundry, a monthly stipend...priority login...but that's in reality the main differences between subscribers and non-subscribers, aside from a few restictions ingame and with support.

The Future?

Well, Cryptic have made at least one good move out of all this. DStahl, previously the head honcho in charge of everything, is returning to STO to head up the Foundry, the toolset available to users to create missions. However, the future is far from bright unless Cruyptic make some sweeping changes to the game, especially crafting wise.

Feel free to join me when the game goes live on January 17th, though in it's current state I cannot recommend you pay to play Star Trek Online.

Alternatives?
There are many alternatives available to you if you are a subscriber to STO but no longer want to play:
Freelancer, where you play a outcast combating a 'background' alien invasion of the rulers of various factions
Ur-Quan Masters, a (free) space combat game
Starpoint Gemini, a bit like Freelancer except that the world's a lot bigger.
Elite Force, a game based on Star Trek: Voyager with a sequel aboard the Enterprise-E with mainly Ground combat.

Article: Star Trek Online F-2-P - Part 3: Dilithium

2011-11-30T22:58:00.003Z

When Star Trek Online goes free-to-play, there will be a total of 3 currencies; Energy Credits, Gold Pressed Latinum, and Dilithium.

Energy credits are the main item you will be concerned about on a daily basis. It is gained from DOFF missions, selling spare gear and items you've gained through mission rewards and loot drops after you've killed enemies.

Gold Pressed Latinum is exclusively obtained through Dabo, the Ferengi game of chance, and apart from the occasional DOFF mission, it's pretty much a novelty currency.

Dilithium replaces Marks Of Valor, Marks of Exploration, Starfleet Merits, Honor, Emblems, Marks of Honor, Badges of Exploration...all in one currency you can use to buy Bridge and Duty Officers, and both ground and space gear and equipment.

How do I get Dilithium?
Dilithium is gained from missions and, in tiny ammounts, from DOFF missions. The average explore the "x" cluster will now give about 1440 ore. Ore can be converted to crystals on a straight 1:1 conversion, though this is capped at about 8K per day.

You may also "purchase" your Dilithium by exchanging Cryptic points for it.

Gear and Equipment?
Correct. All gear and equipment previously available on the previous currencies will now be available on Dilithium. This also means that you can use this currency from everything from a Lieutenant level Phaser sniper rifle (setting you back a few hundred) to a Admiral Quantum Torpedo (costing some 15,000.

Most traders now have a 'clone'; the original will use EC for a 'common' and a Dilithium clone for the same equipment but to blue (rare) or purple (very rare) standard.

However, Special Task Force gear is splitting into a different, inclusive system meaning you have to do STFs to grind for the gear.

Crafting

Crafting sees a massive overhaul. Crafting now requires unreplicable materials, available from the Schematics vendors.

These are available in 10 (common) or 1000 (Uncommon) varieties, and the ammount required per rank and item vary considerably. However, one benefit is they are tradable, so a fleet may store a variety of them for Crafting needs.

However, be warned: the Aegis set costs a toal of 46.2K Dilithium or so, meaning if you are to craft a full set, you are going to be 'grinding' to get the required ammount unless to turn to the exchange in buying the Unreplicables.

My Opinion?

The consilidation of the various currencies is a much needed step for STO, meaning what you get at Lt level is still viable at Admiral level, one of the major issues with the previous currencies as they were 'tiered'.

However, the cap, combined with the high requirements for crafting, is not a good step for the 'holy grail' currency. It is in my opinion that unless the requirements for crafting are reduced, or the cap and ways of obtaining Dilithium in-game are increased, it will have a negative effect to crafting.

Article: Star Trek Online F-2-P - Part 2: UI, DOFFs & Missions

2011-11-30T00:01:00.024Z

Story Missions
Once upon a time, missions in Star Trek Online were rather like episodes of Star Trek (the original 60's series), in that apart from the occasional reference, all could be more-or-less picked up and played on whim without any real effect.

However, in the new free-to-play, now everything is now laid before you in a new tab for the story arcs, each containing a mixture of ordinary missions and "Weekly Series" when a mission is released each week for 5 consecutive weeks, containing an entire story arc.

There are 5 for Klingon players; "The Federation War", "The Fek'Ihri Return", "The Romulan Conspiracy" and "The Breen Invasion" and "The Undine Advance"."The Federation War" contains 4 missions and the 5 mission Devidian Weekly series, with both "The Romulan Conspiracy" and "The Breen Invasion" containing their respective Weekly series only with no additional missions.

For Federation players, there are 6 arcs; "The Klingon War", "The Romulamn Mystery", "The Cardassian Sturggle", The Borg Collective", "The Breen Invasion" and "The Undine Advance". Unlike the Klingon side, only "The Breen Invasion" is purely Weekly series missions only.

On the plus side, missions are now skippable without you having to worry about which mission you need to select, and all missions now level with you, meaning the mission you pick up as a lieutenant stays as your rank, so attacking at at Commander level will give you Commander level baddies. Rewards don't scale, though, so in reality you're better taking missions as you want (or need) them.

Patrol Missions
Patrol missions are now not given as a "Patrol The 'X' Sector Block"; instead, these are now given as you approch a system, meaning that they will now not clog up your mission log. It also means that if you, by accident, drop one, you merely go near the system to pick it back up!

The rewards for these have also been changed round, meaning you are more likely to earn gear for your character.

Special Task Forces

These have been converted to a 'normal' and 'elite' version, the 'normal' having things such as walkways for the final (boss) room of Infected. New gear sets have been released too, adding special armour and shields in 3 styles, 2 of which are cross-factional for both KDF and Federation players.

DOFFs
One completely new system in STO is the new Duty Officer (DOFF for short) mission system. In essence, you pick some officers to perform a mission (which you can't play or affect apart from setting it up, cancelling it or accepting the rewards), occasionally requiring supplies, energy credits or Latinum to complete.

A wide variety are provided, including raids of enemy facilities and ships (occasionally to acquire items), trading and diplomacy meetings. Various items and rewards are given, mostly in DOFF system experience points (XP) or items, such as consumables or rare items, like a deployable turret for your ship that shoots enemies.

The DOFF system is, in my opinion, an excellent addition. All missions are played in real time, too, and also vary in length. A "level 4 diagnostic on the weapon coils", for example, may only take half an hour; however, diplomacy talks may take upto two whole days to complete. Most will complete within a few hours, though, so I can envisage many people logging on, finishing off the old, starting new ones, changing characters to complete missions and suchlike, then coming back and taking the rewards for whatever's completed.

The success (or failure) is changed by 3 things; rarity, job role and traits. Generaly, a rare (blue) DOFF will take most missions of their section (engineering, science etc) with a fairly good chance of success, whereas job role will affect the success, whereas having specific traits may improve (or reduce) the success rate.

There are 4 "sucess" or "failure" levels; "Critical Success", "Sucess", "Failure" and "Extreme Failure". The latter two results may incur injuries or even deaths to your DOFF members, so be wary about the traits. Certain missions, like the KDF side's "Execute For Incompetance" or "Halt A Mutiny", are not affected by job role or traits and may go either way; a failure of the former will give the report that there are mumblings among the crew whether it was deserved!

Article: Star Trek Online F-2-P - Part 1: Under The Hood

2011-11-29T17:19:00.004Z

Star Trek Online (henceforth STO) will be going free to play on January 17th 2012. Therefore, I will be bringing you an overview of the game before you all clamour to get your hands on it.

When the game get re-released (it's had plenty of changes since launch and no two things are really the same anymore) there is going to be a big difference to the game's performance.

The Skill Tree

The new skill tree for a Tactical Officer.

Firstly, one of the biggest changes has been the skill tree (for non-gamers, a system to improve your powers and statistics by investing skill points). The biggest change has been the complete revision of the space sections, completely changing the Science section to a much more streamlined version, and allowing non-science orientated players a chance to spec against certain attacks. Engineering too has recieved a bit of an overhaul, but not to such an extent.

Tactical has seen a complete removal of weapon-speccing (as in atuning to a particular type) instead becoming a genericised "energy or kinetic" type to imrpove your damage output, with some additions for things like Attack Patterns (actions to increase manouverability, damage resistance, etc.)

Another big difference is the ammount of skill points you invest. Previously, the 5 tiers increased by 100 each tier; that has now changed to increments of 150, meaning a Vice-Admiral skill which was 500 now costs 750, though this is counteracted by the smaller skill tree andan increased skill cap.

"Home" Bases Revamp

New ESD Signage

There has been a massive overhaul to the 'base' locations of the KDF (Qo'noS) and Federation (Earth Space Dock, henceforth ESD) factions. Qo'noS location signage are now purely English (as opposed to Klingon becoming English when you went near them) and the ESD signage have been changed from purely text based to featuring a simplistic holographic image and a new font, with colours indicating the area.

This is not all bad, but the new ESD signage looks kindof childlike in comparison to what was previously there. Earth Space Dock has also recieved a massive clear-up, removing some of the items and features like the second balcony for the Stateroom and the crate pile in Requisitions.

Part 2 will concern the new UI & Missions, and part 3 will concern Dilithium and what it affects.

Ribbing replaced.

2011-11-27T14:07:00.001Z

The Union Pacific boxcar has had the underfloor ribs shortened and re-attached. In total, about 2/5ths of the rib has been removed, and then attatched with a tiny pec of UHU Super glue to 'place them', ensuring the bogies moved freely, before attatching them proper with some Plastic Weld.

I'm happy to report that the model now runs much better. The last thing to do is replace the missing handrail on the one side and weather the model, a task for sometime in the future.

Two down, another to go.

2011-11-24T17:39:00.001Z

I've taken the executive decision and removed the rubs from the Union Pacific boxcar for the time being. I then went to file the bogie pivot down slightly to obtain a slightly lower body height for improving the knuckle couplers.

I then found I filed too much off, and promtpy made the model slanted. Diagonally.

Bogie frame was then filed flat, but now the bogie was catching on the car underside. Cue a hunt, and a trimmed piece of transfer sheet left over from an Airfix kit did the job nicely.It's loose, but I will glue it down at some point. Probably.

While doing this, I realised I could fix the issue with the coupling box, which was held together by something resembling glue. This was trimmed off the underside and replaced with a Kadee box, but was too high as was for normal coupling operation.

This was remedied by a piece cut from a bridge support side from a N gauge Ratio kit from my previous layout and filed to fir underside the coupling box.

All that's left to fix is the underfloor ribbing.

Warley 2011 report - Bachmann to release "Blue Pullman"

2011-11-19T15:30:00.006Z

***Bachmann to release "Blue Pullman"***
Bachmann are quite clearly quite proud of the new model, and quite rightly too. It bristles with details and features, and, although I won't want one, it certainly looks like it will be popular.

The features list is also intriguing; twin motors? New drive system? But I will have to admit; the lit tables did look exceedingly good, fine (if delicate when you disassemble your own copy of the model to add passengers) representations and look every bit as good as the photos I've seen.

The usual plethora of externally attached individual details will be there; though like Heljan, only a select few grills will actually be etched.

No suggestions of price but I wouldn't be surprised if a basic power car set to nudge £150 easily. The full 6 car rake will be made.

Other announcements/models
Aside from the BP, Bachmann were also displaying the latest models for the Thomas & Friends large scale series; James, Emily's coaches and a petrol tanker.

Hornby had decorated samples of the Gresley full brake and suburbans; the latter in both LNER Teak and BR Crimson. They look very nicely moulded.

Review:
The exhibition was held in Hall 5 again, but this time opened at 9AM for advance ticket holders. Access to the site is easy due to good bus and rail links to Birmingham, Solihull and beyond; if you're desperate, there's always the airport of course.

The hall layout was well planned with plenty of width in the isles and plenty of room around the layouts and stands. There were plenty of stalls selling a mixture of new, second hand and various bits and pieces including Aiden Campbell miniature figures.

There was an equally wide variety of layouts; scales Z, N, 3mm (aka TT) HO, OO, and several larger and narrow gauge layouts spotted representing locales such as France, Austria, America and good 'ol England. There was even Orion, the 1:6 scale loco owned by the Stephenson Locomotive Society.

However, one thing to note is there seemed to be less there this year, though this seemed to be balanced out by the lack of people actually visiting the exhibition. Before you ask, I didn't buy a single thing...save for the entry tickets, of course...

(Lack of) clearance...

2011-11-11T12:23:00.000Z

One of the issues I have with my shiny new Union Pacific boxcar is the clearance for the bogie swing, due to brake rigging and struts.

While the brake rigging can be trimmed away, I have to think carefully with the struts. I'm thinking of cutting them off entirely, then reducing their size and gluing them back on - it would look weird when photographed if the struts are missing.

And, of course, I'm going to need to sort out the couplings and the wheelsets. The bogies rock the body something rotten, and one the knuckle coupling box won't assemble itself properly.

Solihull MRC Annual Exhibition: An Analysis

2011-11-06T13:04:00.004Z

The Site
The exhibition was spread over 2 'halls'; the main St Mary's hall and the Scouts building to it's right at the back.

Due to the locality of the exhibition, I caught the bus there. Parking, however, looked a lot like 'wherever you find a space', though there is some onsite parking.

The 'Food'
I didn't bother 'refreshing' myself. It seems like I chose wisely; according to my dad, the coffee was rather weak and tasted very little of coffee. Variety of foods on offer for those with growling stomachs, though there is a row of shops a minute's walk away, including a chippie...

The Stands
Wide variety of stands and stalls selling a combination of second hand, scenic items, electrical items, various wood, plastic and metal components and new releases. There was even a stand selling photo prints, and another two with some second hand American HO.

The Layouts
There was a wide variety, encompassing a variety of locales. However, the layout of the main hall was very poor; very little maneuvering room and it seemed a bit 'crammed in' by the entrance.

The Scout's hall was much better laid out. The Running track was nice to see.

And what did you get?
Two boxcars; a Union Pacific (but box less) and a 'Norfolk & Western' from a kit, partly assembled without couplings. The latter I like especially as it's a welded model with semi-elliptical roof.

Call Of Duty: Modern Warfare "Choppa"

2011-11-06T12:51:00.002Z

I've began yet another kit, though, for a change, it's actually a helicopter. It was going cheap in Modelzone, afterall....

US Milatary buffs will know it's a CH46-E "Bull Frog". Gaming buffs will recognise it from the CoD:MW series; not only as a pivotal story piece, but also as a hideout in the 'Crash' multiplayer map.

From what I can tell, the kit is very nicely moulded with no flash. The cab is a case-in-point; plenty of dials, knobs and levers to pick out in various colours. Many 'spares' for variants or extra details, such as floatation aids.

But, as usual, instructions could be clearly improved. Mainly a series of exploded diagrams, with a little bit of detail or writing for a bit or clarity here or there; I wanted to model the ramp down and the intructions weren't very clear.

Their ordering is also a little 'off' - you're assembling the rotors first!

I've assembled most of the kit save for the interior. I'm going to obtain some same scale figures to stick in so I can model the Helli 'dropping off' troops.

White and blue...

2011-11-06T12:32:00.000Z

Finally, aftrer about 5 different sessions, and about everything getting 2 layers of paint, I have begun on lining and letting the Tyco boxcar.

The lining (and letting) will be white, as this contrasts nicely with the dark blue. All the ladders/hand rails will be done, then followed by the lettering.

So far, it's not going along too badly. Despite using only a cocktail stick, though, some of the paint still went where it shouldn't. Oh well.

Painting: round one!

2011-10-29T12:16:00.003+01:00

For a first coat, it's not too bad. The same can be said for the lighting...

Pretty in grey?

2011-10-27T20:38:00.001+01:00

The Tyco boxcar mentioned here has had a paint stripping with some half-baked product (which worked to a degree) before being primed about 10 different times to ensure a nice, even coat.

Of course, the brake wheel is non standard. It's actually the result of a hole punch and plasticard.

Going patchy....

2011-10-05T22:27:00.000+01:00

Sad news, folks. Leonard Nimoy, the beloved Spock of both Trekkie and sci-fi fan alike, is retiring from conventions; his last was Chicago over the last weekend. Live long and prosper, Nimoy.

Due to Free-2-Play testing on Star Trek Online, I am playing on the Tribble server only for an indefinate period, testing the new DOFF (Duty Officer) system, mission progression etc. and all the shiny new features. Please note this is only available to current subbers only.

Third, 2 large boxes containing goodies have arrived; one contains computer parts, the other something else entirely, though not model trains related.

Ergo, for the next few weeks, I will not be making regular posts; apologies.

City Station: and unto the buildings.

2011-10-03T17:58:00.002+01:00

Now the platforms are complete, time to turn attention to the station building(s). Because of the size of the station, I wanted to purvey an 'extended' look without it seeming out of place.

This will be provided by Hornby in the form of 2 modified resin buildings; a "Dryaw" station from the Thomas range (brought cheap at TK Maxx Birmingham) and a Magna waiting room (brought half a year or even more ago from ModelZone Birmingham).

Over the next few days, as I do more to them, I'll make a post listing all the changes. Like the removal of that 'canopy' from the white Dryaw building.

City station platforms

2011-09-29T18:14:00.001+01:00

The ramp for platform 1 is now the last piece I need to do before all the main platforms are complete. I have semi-decided that station access is not shown, being 'behind the station building'.

I also thought I'd share this 'posed' photo consisting of a BR 3MT, a Hornby (Margate) SR Parcels van and 2 non-descript Lima coaches. Not too bad for platform 2, though this is the usual train length.

What to use it for...

2011-09-26T18:51:00.000+01:00

When I designed (as I went along) my model railway, I created a headshunt for the freight/platform 3 run-around loop and sidings. I intended this to be an engine shed road...but then a thought struck me.

It's not big enough. There's no room for a water tower, coaling or cleaning facilities...so there's not much point, and besides, having it as a siding/headshunt allows me extra storage space.

As per the photo, it's currently being used in engineering works for the finishing of the platform and finishing off the ballasting.

Platform updates.

2011-09-25T15:43:00.001+01:00

I've done a lot more of the platform surfacing, and I've temporarily stuck on some lamps and a water crane for your viewing pleasure.

There's still the end of platofmr one to do (underway) and the finalisation of the station entrance, but everything else is more or less done, platform wise.

I quite like the third shot, shown here from the track's point of view.

Improving the Tyco Boxcar

2011-09-24T12:52:00.001+01:00

The reefer, upon closer inspection, felt a little light. So out came the PVA and 'lead shot' and a good smear of glue at both ends and a good sprinkle with a spoon of the lead made it heavy enough.

However, reassembling I discovered that it had an unusual lean to one side; I also found one of the extra weight lumps of lead had detatched itself from the floor and become loose. This loose weight was then removed and the car returned to a normal(ish) position.

Now. Wheels. While the ones it had ran (fairly) well, I couldn't help myself - as good as they are, they're no match for metal ones, especially metal wheels on metal rods. I delved into my 'stash' of stock and found my Atlas Southern hopper.

The wheelsets were swapped (and in the case of the transfer from the boxcar to the hopper, trimmed) and all was good..sortof. I trimmed too much off the one plastic axle and the hopper keeps dropping a wheelset.

The reefer, however, was much smoother, and a little boring of the holes in the bogie frames and a little filing of the avle ends and hey presto - a smooth item of rolling stock.

Couplings were the next hurdle. Becuase of the age of the model, it had some older style knuckle couplers. The hopper again became useful; I swapped some Kadee No. 5 knuckle couplers with the (supposedly Bachmann) EZMate couplings in the pockets and fitted the hopper's originals into the bogie coupling mount, and they fitted near perfectly.

However, while re-assembling the model after checking the chasses on it's own, I broke two of the retaining pegs for the body which fit in holes on the chassis. Whoops.

Things that go 'drip' in the night...

2011-09-20T19:33:00.000+01:00

I kid you not.

Last night, before I went to bed, I glued down some more polystyrene for the city station, as well as doing a little tidying up. In fact, the only reason I stopped was due to me running extremely short on PVA glue.

Now, about 1 AM, still sleepy, I awoke with a nosebleed. Coming back to bed, I tried to make myself comfortable. And then I felt that my pillow was damp. Unusual, I thought to myself, and then felt there was something in my hair.

It was then it clicked. Bedroom light went on, and I confirmed it. PVA glue had leaked through a hole in the baseboard onto a bracer, and then onto my pillow. Needless to say, I was most displeased.

There were two great big stains of PVA glue on the pillow heading towards my head. And there was a considerable leak awaiting to prove the theory of gravity awaiting to drip onto the pillow. New pillow cover later, accompanied by a 'mop up' of the excess PVA and I went back to sleep.

There was another drip there in the morning, though much less and not enough to cause it to drip, though I dealt with it before heading to work. Needless to say, when I told my colleagues about it, there was many comical miles in it. American Pie 2 was also mentioned...

Redditch MRC Annual Exhibition: An Analysis

2011-09-19T19:07:00.000+01:00

The Site
Part of the show was held in a different section to last year, though as it was all under one roof (well, you didn't have to go outside unless you had a wheelchair) it made it seem there less there than last year.

Parking was plentiful and well organised. Getting there for 1 minute after opening was a good turn of events - plenty of spaces.

My only real complaint as the toilet facilities, which (supposedly) were old female toilets, i.e. no.. well, you get the gist. The soap dispenser had also ran out of soap... before lunchtime on the Sunday!

The 'Food'
I didn't bother eating at the exhibition owing to a cooked lunch awaiting us when we got home. However, the coffee wasn't too bad. Should've asked for a little more milk and I should've added more sugar.

From the looks of it, no warm food was being served, though it could just be the time of day, though it looked like plenty of cakes were available; for example, cherry-topped bakewell tarts at 30p each.

The Stands
Wide variety selling nearly everything, from electronic components to train sets, but there was a large variety of second hand. However, there did seem to be more of a lean towards second hand; I only found one stall selling the new Hornby horseboxes, for example, and only in BR Maroon (perfect for me, but not for those 'Westerners')

The Layouts
Wide variety spanning various locales and time periods, including 2 layouts from 'overseas' (French and American).

It was also nice to see Chilcompton, which looked much more 'cheerful' than pictures in the press indicated. And every layout had something running when I wandering round.

And what did you get?
A new Hornby Horsebox, a "Tyco" reefer car, and 2 scenery kits. Photo to the right.

Platform progress

2011-09-17T17:17:00.002+01:00

Work on the city station gets a boost with the addition of 2 lengths of topping on the 'island' platform for platforms 2 &3. This shot shows you how much more there is to do, though...

Today's picture: morning moon

2011-09-14T18:50:00.001+01:00

This was the view I saw this morning circa 6:15AM this morning.

Are you focused?

2011-09-14T18:37:00.001+01:00

Look at the picture on the right. Never mind what you see in the background, what DO you see?

Well, if you ARE clever enough, you will have noticed that even though I tried to get the shot to the height of a model figure, that to do so meant I would be hovering over the track! (the edge of the platform on the bottom left)

You also will have noticed that the lamp is bent, and there is a lot of 'flash' on the model; this needs to be seen to at somepoint.

But you might premise that as the lamp is green, the default colour of the product (it's made by Peco but advertised as Modelscene) and think I am modelling the Southern. Well, that's partly true.

So, for those interested in what IS in the background, here is a link to the stuff 'behind', a ex-GWR Pannier, Siphon and ex-LMS Parcels van.

Exhibitions Archive

2011-09-14T18:23:00.004+01:00

To improve the layout of my blog, I shall henceforth be removing the 'old' exhibition links and pasting them here. I shall not be deleting any posts, merely reducing the bumff that you see on the sidebar.

"Spring" exhibition season 2011
Sat 15th - Sun 16th January
Leamington & Warwick Model Railway Exhibition
(Review here)

Sat 12th - Sun 13th March
West Mercia Model Railway Exhibition
(Review here)

Sat 9th - Sun 10th April
Stourbridge Model Railway Exhibition

Sat 16th - Sun 17th April
Sutton Coldfield Railway Society - Model Railway Exhibition
(Review here)

Sat 11th June
Trent Valley North American Modellers Exhibition
(Review here)

"Winter" exhibition season 2011
September 17th/18th
Redditch MRC Annual Exhibition
(Review here).

November 5th
Solihull MRC Annual Exhibition
(Review here).

November 19th/20th
Warley MRC Exhibition (NEC)
(Review here).

City station platform - nearly there!

2011-09-12T21:13:00.000+01:00

Apologies if it's a little messy, but for a change, I have been doing some work on the platforms for the city station.

I'm happy to report that this is the last section 'this end', and only the end of platform 1 needs completion. Of course, it needs filling in and topping with the cardboard from the Metcalfe kit, but hey-ho.

Mogul Lighting; just when the going gets good...

2011-09-04T21:52:00.001+01:00

I finally got round to assembling all the wiring for the Mogul, with the exception of the capacitor and the return transfer wiring to the terminal block for the loco headlight.

Well...it doesn't work. The switch board checked out. The LED worked not too long ago so that couldn't have gone. The problem seemed to be with the power correction board (which coverts the pickups so the LEDs will light in either direction).

So I tested the LED via the diode function on my multimeter. It passed the test...but no light. I tried another LED. That was brand new and it didn't work! Third time lucky, and hey presto - the LED works.

Though I now have serious doubts as to the power correction veroboard, and I imagine this will be de-componanted and then re-designed. I imagine the problem is a bit of 'solder bridge' in a place or two but I have already tried cleaning it to no joy.

Mogul Lighting; nearly there....ish....

2011-08-31T18:28:00.000+01:00

Now that I've aquired a 100uF capacitor from Maplins to sustain the lights over temporarily glitches, I have finished aquiring the bits needed to complete the lighting, and, all that awaits is the final joining of everything up.

Because of the extra resistance of the pickups, I have reduced the tender weighting to only one of the heavy metal sheets, (though modified in case of front bogie pick-up installation at a later date,) cut in 'slanted' near-halves to allow for the light switches.

I have also found a solution to my 'wire connection' problem - cut down and sanded terminal block! Once I have completed the 'joining up' of all the LEDs, PCB boards, etc. I shall feed the transfer wires into the other end (hidden behind the faceplate) and glue them into position.

Today's Picture: Austrian Grasshopper

2011-08-28T18:06:00.002+01:00

While on holiday last week in Austria, I came across this weird fellow. Strange....

Today's Picture: Old style!

2011-08-19T16:00:00.000+01:00

Unfortunately, I had a spot or cyst (or something similar) on my chin, which was promtly dealt with, to a degree. However, I scratched it last night and had to shave some of my beard off to stop the blood 'clagging' up my beard.

So, today I tried tidying it up and going for the "happy Mutton Chops" beard style, with my own personal twist. Of course, this was much dis-liked by my whole family.

So out came the trimmers for a "Star Trek" look with TOS-style Klingon extended moustache!

Needless to say it's all been shaved off now, as I'll match my passport photo better.

Mogul Lighting: Tidying the light...

2011-08-19T15:54:00.000+01:00

With the tender light proved working, attention turned to the 'mask' to hide the LED legs.

As so much of the 'lamp' had been cut away to house the LED, I thought that I could 'sculpt' the remainder of what was missing in Milliput. Admittedly, the results aren't 100% like the original lamp, but I'm sure with some filing and painting it won't look too out of place.

I also need to paint it black...

Wiring Mess...

2011-08-13T21:04:00.000+01:00

I can tell I'm getting old. Forgetfulness. Needing naps. Complaining about the youth of today. A sign 20 is the new 50, maybe?

But anyway, after my first nap of the day, I saw this. Something I'd seen many a time; it is the underside of the baseboard of my 'city' station. Becuase I run DCC, the entire wiring reams are not for the different sections, it's there merely to link it all up!

Blue for the rail closest to the edge, yellow for the rail closest to the wall. All linked together with screw terminal block.

Mogul Lighting: Part 4

2011-08-07T13:32:00.000+01:00

I've sorted out the tender light, at long last.

I originally planned to solder the LED to some vero board then feed this through the gap in the tender shell and solder wires on from underneath. However, that would mean possible damage to the tender shell.

However, I had an idea. If I bent the LED's legs with pliers and a bit of force, I could then solder wires to these, and feed it through the hole. It wouldn't be as stiff as the circuit board, and would allow for some adjustement too.

Anyway, said LED has it's legs bent and two wires (of different colour) were soldered to them. This were tested with a resistor in a breadboard and some links; all fine, LED undamaged.

This also allowed nearly the entire circuit to be assembled (save the switches). With the power supply at 3V, the led emits a nice, faint glow, not too bright nor too dark. It gets progressively brighter after that.

Mogul Lighting: Part 3

2011-08-06T18:06:00.001+01:00

I've finally done something about the front headlight on the mogul.

With the original and it's wiring removed, the replacement LED, soldered straight onto the copper side of a 2 track wide vero board (i.e. not through the holes) and 2 black wires and this neatly slots into the gap.

A large rectangular hole drilled in the 'front chassis' cover (and smokebox lower filler) allows the wires to escape. These wires then perform a slanted 90 degree curve to follow the chassis frame to the firebox, where they enter it and emerge through a hole into the cab.

The trouble with this, for now, is that the wires are still loose... and touching the wheels. Not good for looks.

Today's Picture: Are you a messy worker? (rebuttal)

2011-08-03T20:45:00.001+01:00

Phil Parker is a messy soul.

Mind you, I fare much better. And not for good reason(s)... mostly becuase I don't spend as much time modelling as I should. Then again, I don't have an unfinished stack of models nor a pile of unstarted kits; what I start I generally finish...and I am only 20 years old.

A few points to note, though; yes, I AM using my solder reel as a holder for the circuit board, because I am soldering wire to the circuit board, and thus I can keep the wire taught against the circuit board this way.

That box is the 'bits box' (save for what's stored in my 'tools' draw) and contains bits of old household electrical items and assorted junk that has no other home.

And yes, it also serves as my own personal computer when I want it to be. Which isn't very often.

Mogul Lighting: Part 2

2011-08-01T19:23:00.001+01:00

Continuing on yesterday's post, the boards for the tender lighting have been soldered up, save for the actual light fitting itself and joining it all together, which will happen next weekend...

I initially started them by trying to cut the board for the switches... and what a disaster that was! I started planning the board size, and used a drill bit to 'split' the copper track to stop the switches interacting with each other.

Then I began cutting the board to size...and the piece for the board split in two. Whoops. Right where one of the switches was going to go...

However, I wasn't going to lose this battle; thinking quickly, I realised that the split was curved, and that the switch, once soldered, would quite happily hold the board together, especially when I soldered a 'solder bridge' between the switch centre contacts.

I soldered the switch to the one complete hole, and held the 'split' piece of board to the switch with bluetack while soldering it together. SO far so good. Removed the bluetack, and all was well. I soldered the other switch onto the board, soldered the wires and solder bridge, and gave it a visual check.

One board complete, I then turned onto the 'rectification' board, which was the remainder of the veroboard cut from where the cut out for the switch board finished. Now, this had the trouble that the board wasn't wide enough for the diodes for the rectifier to be side-by-side. However, if they were in live vertically, there would be room, provided I added 'jumps'.

So, the diodesand resistor was test fitted, checked for interaction (no track breaks needed thankfully) and the diodes were soldered to the board, follwed by the resistor and then the wire 'jumps' (fashioned out of the pick up wire!) and finally the wires.

Now, the eagle-eyed of you will have noticed that 2 of the wires share the same colour. This is purely a fluke, and the board on the left's pink wire actually feeds the right hand board's black wire.

Confusing, eh?

Mogul Lighting: Part 1

2011-07-31T14:32:00.004+01:00

When starting the actual graft, it's important to know how it works before you disassemble it to begin work.

So, in preperation for the eventual swap and modification work, I have to know how the loco works. And, after examination, it's very simple.

The circuit board is held in place by 2 crews which transfer the power from the split chassis to the board; this then gets refined then sent to the motor and headlight. The smoke unit is independant and takes it's power direct from the split chassis halves.

Thus, I can remove the headlight by cutting the wires off from the board; problem solved. And the new LED's wires can run down the side of the loco with the reduced valvegear, thus adding to it's uniqueness.

Of course, no true engineer does anything without testing the lighting! Here is the basic circuit that will power the lights; pretty good if you ask me.

Now then, just to fit it all together...

12 days later.../Plum tree

2011-07-29T14:51:00.000+01:00

I know. 12 days is a long time on the internet without posting something. However, I have fully aquired all the materials needed to add the tender light!

So, over the coming weekend, I will be soldering ti all up. Watch out, Internet!

In other news, the plum tree in the garden decided enough was enough and snapped...

I got pickups...

2011-07-17T15:17:00.004+01:00

I'd like to dedicate this post to Phil Parker, who's assistance was most welcomed and allowed me to proceed beyond the 'stop block' I'd encountered.

I have finally added pickups to the tender of the Mogul after having the last component needed - wire - arrive yesterday morning.

So off I went, soldering electrical wire and metal wire to a tiny bit of 'vero board' and then gluing this to the bogie; after all, it's best to do one bogie first and test it...

After filing the holes in the tender floor for the wires to move about freely, it looks like a success; the wheel collection wires are sprung enough to apply but loose enough not to cause drag. And from the image of the bogie, you can't tell the wire's there either.

Ok, so the wires are a bit stiff. Shouldn't matter too much; I'd be trimming these anyway, so I may be able to find some better stuff and then trim the wires when above the tender base and soldering on new wire as 'springing' so that the circuit board isn't affected by stiff wire.

So...all that remains for the 'core' modifications are the switch, resistor and LED for the tender light, and I'm looking into the front light/extra pickup connection already...

Rubbing out the mistakes..

2011-07-12T19:25:00.000+01:00

Once again, stupidity (or lack of concentration) struck one again. I ordered some American HO wagons from Gaugemaster consisting of a caboose in New York Central livery and 2 hoppers. This is one of the hoppers.

It was originally in Penn Central livery. Penn Central was formed from the merger of the Pennsylvania and New York Central Railroads. Needless to say, it didn't turn out too good. Worse still, the hopper car had a built date of '76. 1976.

So..out came my shiny new fibreglass pencil from Maplins. And, along with some Modelstrip, the transfers came off quite nicely, leaving a slightly "painted over" look. I shall endeaver to clear the rest up at somepoint, and maybe add new transfers, but for now, I am happy.

A load for the gondola

2011-07-10T19:16:00.003+01:00

To break up the monotony of the conversion/detailing of the Mogul, today I'm going to talk about wagon loads. Specifically, that for the gondola which I bought several weeks ago.

After I donated blood, I wandered into Ian Allan. They're re-stocking American stuff again (which is where I bought the "Mogul" from) and there's always something to tempt me. In the 'rummage' box were several packs of Duha detailing accessories, including these cable drums.

These were added to the gondala's current load. This included several parts from a discarded paper shredder, a random bit of what I presume is Lego, a length of code 100 rail and some of the spare parts from the Mogul.

Alright, the drums were fairly expensive (even discounted), but they are hand-made (and wooden!). And there's another one after filling the gondola too, which has wound its way onto my model railway.

Mogul tender modifications..

2011-07-07T21:39:00.002+01:00

Well, if the tender is going to have lights, it will be easier for it to have it's own power feed; this could also be passed (via a socket/lead arrangement) to the loco to aid in the power pickup for it.

But first, improvements (or hacking about!) have to be taken to the bogies and tender frame to allow this to happen. The Bachmann Consilidation picks up of one side for one bogie and the other side for the other. Simple really, as then the power can go through the bogie retaining screw. I, however, cannot afford that luxury unless I scratchbuild the chassis.

So I have drilled a hole each side of the central mounting hole for wires in the bogies and replicated this (but with bigger holes due to bogie movement) on the tender underframe. Veroboard is in stock, and I shall use my free time this weekend to solder some of the many wires needed. I still have yet to aquire metal wheelsets...and the LED for the tender light.

Mogul updates...

2011-07-04T18:54:00.002+01:00

...because it ain't a Prairie no more!

One of the gripes about the model is that it didn't look right as a 'Prairie', because the leading wheel sets were so small compared to the others. This is about the only decent picture I could find of an American 'Prairie'.

Anyway, the first picture (above right) I've linked is the locomotive while being modified. I've linked it as the front foot boards (and coupling) has been cut from the keeper plate, leaving the loco with a 'about to be scrapped look', especially as the left hand cylinder and cab roof have been removed for safe keeping.

The second (right) is a comparison of the front and trailing wheel sets, showing the difference in size; the foot board section removed is behind. The larger one is actually fitted at this point, the leading wheel set holder requiring no modification. The photos left and right show the wheel set fitted and the foot board/coupling part re-fitted, though moved forward from it's original placement and upwards slightly.

The final photo shows this too, but also shows I've removed the gear protection moulding which was catching on my Peco code 75 points...

New life for the 'prarie'

2011-07-03T14:45:00.001+01:00

The Prairie is already getting lined up for improvements...partly because I over exerted myself on some parts, meaning the model now only had proper valve gear on one side. Also, I was running it tender first and the cab roof kept 'popping' off, so that has been modified.

Below is the current listing of planned improvements.

Modification of the damaged valve gear to ensure it runs smoothly.
Shorten/modify the cab roof slightly to improve aesthetics
Adjust tender dimension so it's not too large compared to the loco - may scratch build a new body, for example.
Fit pickups to the tender to improve electrical conductivity
Fit a light to the tender, as well as an on/off switch.
Detail the loco, such as fitting a cylinder to 'cover' the lack of valve gear, glazing the cab and fitting a crew.
Modify the front of the loco, to allow me to increase the diameter of the leading wheels. This will also entail modification of the front 'switching' board section, allowing me to possibly fit a working Knuckle coupling.

Review: Bachmann New York Central 'Prarie'

2011-07-02T17:25:00.008+01:00

Protoype Information:
Owner: New York Central Railroad

Make/Model:2-6-2 Prarie

Built/Bought by NYC RR: unknown.

Number: 1905

Model Information:
Stock number: 51520
Manufacturer: Bachmann Trains (US)

Scale: HO
Cost: £45.00
Bought from: Ian Allan Bookshop, Birmingham.
Couplings: EZ-Mate Mk II (tender only).

First Impressions

It's a nice looking model, with plenty of detail. The model is one of the more 'basic' range and this is certainly the case, for example, when looking inside the cab; no glazing, no crew, and thinly-moulded cab backhead detail.

The tender is a nice moulding, but,. however, has its flaws. Apart from the weight inside the shell and the coupler, the rest of the model is all plastic, including the wheelsets. Another point to mention is the model only has a proper couling on the tender; the front coupling requires you to lift either it or the ajoining item in order for them to couple together.

Paperwork

The model comes complete with no less than 4 A4 sized sheets of instructions and garnuteess; an exploded diagram (with part numbers and smoke fluid instructions) and general instructions in English, and, from what I could make out, Garuntee sheets in English, French and Spanish.

Decoration

The model is superbly, albiet simply, decorated. The only printing is the loco number and "New York Central" on the tender. Both of these are not messy and all are in line, and all to the same colour.

Chassis/Running Quality

The split chassis is an upgraded copy from the 90s, now with a 3(?) pole motor and smoke generator.

The unit is extremely controllable, but however jerks from side to side at higher speeds. The model picks up of the driving wheels only. The leading and trailing wheelsets are occasionally tetchy and have a tendnacy to derail at higher speeds.

The smoke generator I found to be a bit iffy. It works, unquestionably, but only at higher voltages, like the headlight. The smoke generator's output is a mix of an occasional 'chuff' with a near constant (but not large) steady 'stream' of smoke.

10th Donation!

2011-07-01T19:27:00.001+01:00

Today I celebrated a milestone (or should that be "millstone?!).

I gave my tenth donation to NHS Blood & Transplant. 9 of these donations have been blood donations proper, the 10th being a platelet test sample I gave while at college to see whether I could donate platelets; answer is no, I have an average number.

The 'Bronze' prize is a generic "thank you for your tenth" letter, a A5 size certificate, and a lapel badge with a bronze/white Blood Donor logo with a '10' below it.

Needless to say, the certificate and letter are going in my 'Progress File' (the modern 'Record Of Achievement' for older UK readers) to show off my ability to lie near still with a needle in my arm....

Today's Picture(s): Shooting rabbits...

2011-06-30T19:36:00.000+01:00

...and before you cry "animal cruelty" I'm talking about through a camera lens.

I got up early - 5AM - left the house at 20 to 6 and walked it to work (all 2.8 miles of it, in about an hour - INCLUDING the 'slow movement' for the photography!).

Needless to say, the park at Solihull is perfect at this time of day. The sun is shining, though not too bright, the air is crisp and 'clean', and apart from the occasional jogger or maybe a dog walker, it is totally devoid of humans. Noise (apart from the occsasional train) is that of the animals themselves, the streams, or the breeze through the trees.

Perfect for the many rabbits that come out at night and go to bed in the early morning. And surpisingly, they let me get close - but not too close - enough to photograph them. Shame they wouldn't let me come a little closer - I could've gotton more detail!

Platform updates

2011-06-28T19:04:00.001+01:00

As odd as it may seem, I have ventured beyond Star Trek Online and the Xbox to do some modelling. I have done some platforming, and an extremely tricky part too - the curve of the 'freight' platform on the big station.

I've also done the ramp part too, meaning the remaining section of the platform is all straight, save for the far end where it curves for the crossover/siding double slip.

And toi celebrate, here's an overall progress shot and a 'posed' shot of the pannier coupling up to the freight. The lighting, in my opinion, gives off an 'evening' glow.

USS Enterprise update

2011-06-25T15:09:00.001+01:00

Well, I'd really gone as far as I wanted to. I was now stuck on the aircraft being placed onto the 'lower' or 'hanger' deck. 6 in total, 3 front, 3 rear, with one of the rear ones on the aircraft lift.

And then it struck me. Why, apart from the one on the lift, did it matter what colours they were? After all, once the deck was glued on, you wouldn't be able to see into (or onto) the lower deck. Certainly, unless you properly looked, you probably couldn't tell they were all one colour either.

So...the genius went to work. I painted 5 of the little aircraft (each one with about a 1cm wingspan, if that) in monotone dark grey. I then test fitted the main deck on, and voila - perfect...almost.

I couldn't get the deck to fit properly. Now, I mentioned 'flash' in the purchase post and most of this was cleared off. However, it seems the posts (there's 4 of them all together running through the ships centre line) that hold the top deck to the hull are moulded too big for the holes, or too long anyway.

They were cut...some plastic scraped...and yep, the ship is now glued together with the plastic glue included (it's wonderful stuff, so strong too). The only bit missing is the crane arm & aircraft on the top deck, the camouflage paint and transfers.

That 'weathered' look and more track woes...

2011-06-23T22:08:00.000+01:00

Firstly, I know I haven't updated the blog as much as I want to. This is largely because of work...but I promise I will try to post more...

Here's a comparison of two pictures, the first being a shot you saw in the previous blog post. The second is after 2 different weathering sessions.

The built month/date hasn't been completely 'diminished' that might have to have a little 'scratch away' with the craft knife to break it up a bit.

The second part of this post concerns another fable of mine; track on the edge of boards. This time, I bent the rail on the bridging section across my bedroom doorway. Once relaid, I am seriously considering ballasting the end to ensure it stays that way.

The track has been cut ready, all I need is the time to do it, as the sleepers will need removal, new rail cut to length, and the whole business of re-alignment. Fun, eh?

Kit disappointment

2011-06-18T10:54:00.002+01:00

...I suppose I DID let myself in for it...

After all my hard effort and overtime, I left work early Thursday (Friday I took off with leave) at about 2 o'clock. I went into The Entertainer in Solihull's Touchwood shopping centre - I'd seen a kit for the US Aircraft Carrier USS Enterprise a few weeks ago when I enetered there last. No, not the Constitution class ship, either.

So, I parted with £10 and left the shop with the "model set". The kit, a double-ended brush, 3 plastic 'tinlets' of paint (though you need 6 colours in total!) and some adhesive.

Well...a good 3/4 of the parts are aircraft. The main ship is formed of 5 main pieces; hull, lower deck (forward), lower deck (rear), deck, and cabin. The remaining parts are detailing or aircraft.

However, from a quick inspection, there seems to be some bad moulding work. And extra plastic (called 'flash')...hmmm.....

Fixing up the stock...

2011-06-14T19:39:00.001+01:00

Yes, I know this post is a day late. Things happened behind the scenes. Mostly working late.

The wagons I purchased at the exhibition are pictured right; a cattle car, a boxcar and a gondala (probably best described as a 'bogie open' to us Brits).

The boxcar is the oldest out the three (how old I wouldn't like to say!) and is basically a floor and sides moulded as one with the roof and ends moulded as another bit; the whole lot fits together in a weird way. The obligatory lump of metal sheet is mounted between the underframe detail and the floor. The detail and printing on the model is not the highest, though this could be down to age...

The gondala and the cattle car, however, are more recent (I'd say within the last 10 years max) and have very fine printing and detailing. They were supplied as kits, basically a body (in however many pieces) a metal weight, the underframe (the gondala's coming in 2 parts) and a paper bag containing the coupling parts and

Needless to say 5 minutes later and they're built. and there's no paint or transfers involved. Why can't we Brits have kits like these? However, that's where I'd like to say stop...

..becuase of coupling issues. Granted, this is fixable, but this is so far the only drawback. And a major one at that. I've spent half an hour tweaking these already. And there's still issues.

But at least these issues are not as bad as buying stock that's over a decade out of the period you're modelling....as shown on the right; the gondala has a build date of August 1961. The boxcar also has the same date (though as an overhaul date)

...who cares about these details anyway? It's hardly like I won't be running them slow enough to notice the details. Especially after a coat of weathering....

Trent Valley North American Modellers Exhibition - An Analysis

2011-06-12T16:38:00.001+01:00

The Site
Was neither signposted nor on a major road (well, what did you expect?). However, the satnav found it fine (after I made some accidental detours...)

Car parking was described as "ample". Well, there was a lot of parking, but nowhere near enough! Quite clearly they weren't expecting as many people to turn up as they did, though the exhibition still had plenty of room. The building was well presented and cleaner than some exhibitons I've been to in the past - well, save for the dead spider in the gents...

The Refreshments
Freshly made coffee, tea and squash (and a variety of canned drinks too, if I remember) were being served with some cakes and freshly made sandwhiches. The drinks at 50p each were very reasonable. And also well made.

The Stands
Plenty of traders, most selling the nearly the same things, though there was plenty of variety to be found, from a tail-light flashing kit to ready-made buildings. And one trader selling a LOT of kits...

The Layouts
Four different scales/gauges were represented; O scale, O narrow gauge, HO and N. All were subtlely different; museums, logging railroads, city blocks...plenty of veriety and enough to keep most people occupied. Not very scenery conscious, in my opinion as they were mostly city-based, but then again American is the 'rarer' thing to be modelled here after British and Continental.

And what did you get?
2 Athern kits and a model in an Athern kit box; a blog post will be made ~~tomorrow~~ Tuesday to review and analyse these.

Ballasting using the spreader

2011-06-01T18:18:00.000+01:00

Many moons ago, you may remember I bought a ballast spreader from an exhibition. Well, I let it loose for a few seconds so I could show you how it worked. Right is the 'load' of ballast I loaded the spreader with. Look how far it goes...

Anyway, I could've done with moving the spreader a little faster. But then the camera wouldn't be steady...so instead out came the paint brush to 'tidy up' and smooth out the lumps and bumps. Wetted first with water, then the usual PVA/Water mix.

Progress...of sorts...(post 100)

2011-05-29T10:47:00.002+01:00

I've finally been able to record some video! It's of the station with the electrical issues. As you can see, it's quite clearlt fixed. Now to get on with re-laying...

So....it's Friday...

2011-05-27T20:58:00.000+01:00

...and now I'm pleased to announce my road is going to be closed....for 2 to 3 weeks while they repair the water main which burst Wednesday.

In other news, I've finally drilled the hole for the electrical work on my model railway I started several weeks ago and threaded the rail joiner on and wired it all up. I've still to test it, let alone relay any track. For referance, part 1 and part 2.

Hopefully I will do some more modelling instead of playing xbox games and Star Trek Online.

Today's picture: Victory? (originally the 100th post)

2011-05-24T22:10:00.001+01:00

They've decided to close my road. Again. For the 5th time since my family moved into the road (apparently).

Supposedly it's to fix the sinking road. Yes. You read that right.

Ever since they fixed it (when I was in PRIMARY school!) the road surface has been slowly sinking. And the drains in the kerb are collaping. They've patched it at least once...

What's worse is all the people ignoring the signs saying the road's closed. I counted a good 6 coming home from work alone. Still, at least they've removed the traffic lights...

Review: 10218 "Pet Shop"

2011-05-22T19:51:00.002+01:00

Released: 2011
Pieces: 2032
Price: £119.99/$149.99

First Impressions
I didn't expect such a large box! And it's extremely full of contents. The bags are devided into numbered groups; '1' for the "house" ground floor; '2' for the "house" first and second floors; '3' for the "pet shop" ground floor and '4' for the Pet shop first and second floors.

The instructions now come in a sealed plastic bag with a wedge of cardboard to keep them straight and uncreased.

The "House"
The "house" is extremely bereft above the ground floor; indeed, the decorator in the first floor with his equipment is the only detailing you'll find on this floor. A picture showing the entirity of the first floor detailing is shown right. The 'second' (or attic) only contains a few boxes. However, the roof garden is a nice addition.

The ground floor, however, contains a toilet (hidden under the stairs), sofa, table with phone, hat stand and a table with a vase of flowers on.

The "Pet shop"
The main part of this set, this building is extremely well detailed, more so than the house. There are 6 pets in total; a cat and dog in pens, a frog on a shelf (though maybe this is intended to be a plush toy for the dog?), a fish in a tank and 2 parrots on a stand. There is also a rat outside the back for those interested.

The sign is a very intriguing build; most of the build is actually only held in by friciton with it's counterparts and being clipped to the 'rail' behind; I've included a picture to explain.

The first and second floors are the living residence of the shop keeper; however, there's no bath or shower room. However, he does have a sink, coffee maker and oven/hob combi. No fridge, either....

L.A. Noire is upon us!/Atari to sell Cryptic.

2011-05-17T19:05:00.001+01:00

Yes, ladies and gents; L.A. Noire, the much talked about console-only game with animation generated from real life movement and oodles of historical accuracy you could only erstewhile see in a library is out now in the US and releases here in the UK & EU on the 20th.

I have preordered it and I have been told by Game that pending the withdrawal of the monies they demand my game will be shipped soon.

Can't wait.

In other news, Atari is selling off Cryptic Studios. STO Forum "Announcement" here.

Cryptic Studios, creator of Champions Online and Star Trek Online has been "defunct" since March 31st under Atari's ongoing shake-up.

How this affects STO I don't know. As of the current time, support is and will still be handled by Atari (for all Cryptic games) while the game itself is managed by Cryptic. The announcement isn't believed to affect the Neverwinter project Cryptic is currently undertaking.

Do you like me dirty?

2011-05-15T11:51:00.000+01:00

Last night, out of boredom, I decided to apply some weathering to my Consilidation. Well, it'd hardly be in pristine condition by the late 40's/early 50's i'm modelling.

The weathering was carried out using Tamiya weathering packs B, D and G, with G being used for the wheel dirt/dust/rust look, applied with the brush part, the brush having a liberal coating. The other packs were mainly used for the rust colours. I used the 'blue' weathering pigment for the tender/cab/boiler on the model to remove the 'unblemished' look.

Please bear in mind these shots are only after one coating, and that the loco body and tender body are in need of re-doing. I'd also like to do something about the whistle and bell too....

Today's Picture: Klingon Impressionist Art!

2011-05-10T12:40:00.004+01:00

This is what happens when you apply "auto fix" to a Star Trek Online screenshot....

Incidentily, the screenshot was taken from my Foundry mission "The Kindred" for the KDF.

From start to finish in a few evenings; the tale of a wagon

2011-05-07T17:39:00.001+01:00

Pictured is a wagon, fresh from the box. It is, or course, one of Bachmann (Branchline)'s recent LNER Vans, in BR (E) Early livery. What follows is my account of how it will get modified for use on my model railway.

(Please note all photos taken in the evening/night.)

1. Swap the coupling hooks.
I don't use tension locks. Ungly things. I use proper, scale 3 link or screw link couplings. Whichever I use, the tension locks have to come off. Thank fully, most modern wagons come with the pocket screwed on. Or at least removable.

However, the underframe for this wagon has wire frames (part of the detailing) to ensure the wheels/axles don't come loose. However, if you remove one axle end, you can then push the other in parallel with the chassis and it will move away. A gentle push on the other end (in the same direction) moves the axle out of the way to enable the screw to be removed.

With the chassis free, the model's current coupling hooks are removed and new, metal ones solder-melted in place, as in the metal hook gets heated to melt the surrounding plastic to hold it in. And a good dollop of UHU glue ensures they stay in!

2. Weighting & re-assembly.
With the model disassembled, a nut is glued to the van floor. This is becuase I don't believe models are weighted enough. Besides, it means they roll better.

When the glue is dry, and the coupling hooks are confirmed not to fall out, the model can be re-assembled, ensuring the body is true to the chassis.

3. Weathering & couplings
With the model re-assembled, out come the Tamiya weathering packs and the Boots brushes to weather the model.

When complete, the couplings are 'hooked in' to the coupling hooks. Screw links need to be adjusted to an appropiate length.

Post 94, 1001 views! (Today's Picture Special)

2011-05-07T06:27:00.002+01:00

1001 views! The first of the great milestones, along with 100 posts...which itself will not be too far off...

So, on that grounds, here's today's picture. I don't know precisely who's layout it is (somebody named Saunders I think) but it comes from this page.

I've linked it because it shows you how hard effort can be rewarded. At some point....

And while were at it, here's my current favourite piece of music; the anime Tora Dora's 2nd ending theme.

Review: Bachmann Spectrum 'Heavyweight' Coaches

2011-05-06T20:51:00.005+01:00

Protoype Information:
Owner: New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad

Make/Model: Heavyweight coach (x2), Heavyweight Combine coach

Built/Bought by New Haven RR: unknown, though period of operation is 40s.

Numbers: 6000 (89201), 6895 (89202), 6829 (89203)

Model Information:
Stock numbers: 82901 (Combine), 82902, 82903
Manufacturer: Bachmann Trains (US)

Scale: HO
Cost: £10.99
Bought from: AC Models (Eastleigh) on Ebay
Couplings: EZ-Mate Mk II

First Impressions

The models come in the standard black box with gold printing.

Opening the box reveals a foam insert, and the model is protected by a shaped foam liner. The model itself carefully well wrapped in tissue paper.

One issue I immediately noticed is that the couplers don't come pre-fitted; more of this later,

Paperwork

The models come with a double-sided A4 sheet of paper showing disassembly and part nos, with the reverse with garuntee & contact information.

Decoration

The model has only 2 items of printing; "New Haven" and the number. The number printing is a little fuzzy, though this is to be expected when the printing has to traverse strap and bolt detailing!

The colour is uniform and without any discrepancies.

Features
The coupling boxes are mounted so they are free to swivel in conjeunction with the swinging of the bogie round corners. However, the couplers do not come prefitted; not only is there not much room to manouver hands around, but those with shaking hands (like I frequently do when doing such delicate work) also have trouble keeping the couplings in place long enough to screw them in. Not to mention the springing mechanism which often gets stuck inbetween the keeper plate and the coupling box.

As I found when I upgraded the Combine, the glazing and roof are integral. This in someways lets the model down, especially when British models are so easily dis-assembled....sortof...

However, the true boon with these models is the internal lighting, provided by a LED in the centre of the roof, which lights the coaches most beautifully and equelly. What helps, of course, is that the roof is lined internally with a foil-like material.

After the cutting board....

2011-05-04T21:10:00.000+01:00

If you remember, I bought Phil Parker's (as known for "Parker's Guide" in Hornby Magazine) cutting mat.

Well now I own a boxcar from him too, after winning it's Ebay auction. The supposed reason for selling was it wasn't used apart from the occasional coupling height check.

I wonder why no-one bidded on it apart from me....maybe they didn't know it was such an antique...as it was made in 1997 and it is in NEW condition!

Upgrading the Combine (Harvester).

2011-05-04T18:31:00.000+01:00

Yes, title pun is intended. Whereas us Brits would refer to a coach with gaurd's (alright, Conductor's) accomodation as a "brake", Americans refer to them as "Combines". I'm just going to link this and leave it at that.

So anyway, one pach of Bachmann's sitting passengers and 20 minutes work had me a customised Combine.

Modifications to the passengers
Like most passengers, they are overscale. Well, they're more intended for 00 scale anyway...

But for use here, apart from the front seating row, have had their legs adjusted (or even cut off at the knee), as well as having some of their 'sitting' part of their leg and (I will say it) their ass cut off.

Modifications to the doors
Unlike British models, the glazing and roof are an integral, one piece moulding. Probably due to the lighting. So the doors don't have their own glazing, and the doors simply fit inbetween the solid glazing recess for the doors and the coach body.

So unless I hack around the glazing and fit door runners and door glazing, it ain't gonna happen. Well, until it does, I have simply reduced the door 'length' on one end to allow it to butt up against the end better, so the final window isn't part obscured.

New video!

2011-05-03T19:55:00.000+01:00

Here's a video of me "playing trains" with my new Bachmann Spectrum coaches, as hauled by my Bachmann Spectrum Baldwin 2-8-0.

Expect a review of these coaches shortly.

I'm an idiot....redux!

2011-05-03T19:02:00.001+01:00

I have come up with a plan. A plan so cunning you could stick a tail on it and call it a weasel. I am, of course, referring to my electrical issue with my model railway.

IF I lift up the track I had to relay (it didn't do down properly), clear away the ballast (I've reused it against the platform wall along the one platform road), solder up a new, wired track joiner, and then relay the track with the new joiner and fresh ballast, it'll look much better and actually work. And I don't have to put in so much effort.

Well, all I need to do now is sand down the remnants of the ballast, solder the rail joiner and relay the track and ballast it.

Today's Picture! (02 May)

2011-05-02T08:22:00.000+01:00

The 21st century modeller; complete with fizzy drink and music.

I'm an idiot....

2011-05-02T08:20:00.001+01:00

Pictured right is a hastily drawn electrical diagram for part of the city station (blue and red being rails, black being the location of insulated rail joiners)

And you may notice the 'siding' has a insulated joiner for the blue rail. It also doesn't have it's own power feed, as I forgot to provide one.

Thankfully, if you remember, the ballasting hadn't gone to plan. And I'd run out of ballast at that point. So, to knife and brute force to break up the ballast in preperation for adding another track feed. And relaying the entire length of the siding with a single piece of track. No cutting corners this time.

I've finished!

2011-04-30T14:03:00.000+01:00

I've finally (except for a few minor tweaks...knowing lady luck) finished relaying the bay platform. And increased it's length.

Though I really did have to trim the polystyrene down. And empty the vacuum tube after Dad forgot to clear it out like mom had asked....

So, all that remains is to reconnect the wiring, give it a test, adjust if needed, and then begin platforming and ballasting!

Weathering....again.

2011-04-29T09:49:00.000+01:00

Pictured is a BR insulated van, for the carrying of meat (and, occasionally, fish) on February 26th of this year.

In the second picture is the same wagon, late afternoon yesterday. Not that it is in natural light, you can see some of the weathering has faded from handling and some of the body isn't weathered at all.

So I decided to improve the weathering and tested my Boots 'sponges' . The photo shows how large they are in comparison to the model....and I've also noticed the brushes have a plastic 'inner' to which the foam is merely a warp-around. Much better idea.

But that is a very good thing. It allows me to apply pressure without worrying where the sponge will go. The foam also holds the weathering mixture well, too, and doesn't break it up like the included one does.

Well, by late evening (and after tea) I'd had enough for one session. And I took the photo without any artificial light. But I couldn't get the lighting right, so it appears 'in shadow'. Ends need a little more, I think, but it doesn't look too bad.

Replacement Brushes

2011-04-28T11:09:00.002+01:00

For those with Tamiya weathering packs, you may have noticed that after use, your 'brush' part of the stick may start to fray.

While there ARE Tamiya replacements, frankly, I couldn't care less. That's why I went down to Boots and bought this pack of soft foam applicators from the women's department.

Yes, you did read that right.

I haven't tried them out yet, but they certainly look good. And there's a variety of brush styles too, so weathering those boxcar steps of those 16T mineral wagon underframes might be easier. And, of course, they're doubled ended brushes. Can't wait to trial them!

Half done...

2011-04-27T09:03:00.001+01:00

The main platform road section has been relaid successfully! And the modified track format makes locely 'clickity-clack' noises...

Though the photo is now making me suspicious. Maybe I should check it again....

EDIT: Yes, the track isn't straight, largely due to me foolishly believing the track next to it was straight....more work for me to do!

One good aspect that has come from changing the formation has been the removal of old rail joiners and their possible replacement. This insulated (i.e. plastic, not metal, to stop electrical connectivity) fish plate was brown, not clear. It is now residing in the bin.

Clearance work

2011-04-25T15:20:00.002+01:00

Well, the track has been lifted.

The main platform road has had the equivelent length of 3 sleepers ("ties" to my American readers) removed. Clearance is no longer an issue. Not just to re-assemble the whole lot...

Unfortunately, as you may have guessed, the main section for the bay platform came up in sperate parts. Too much glue was used in sticking it down.

I've also removed the end platform facing strips as these will need cutting/replacing, especially as the platform needs to be altered for the new track formation.

Weathering too far? (part 2)

2011-04-24T08:59:00.000+01:00

So, after a brief word with myself, I decided the weathering wasn't enough, especially around the base of the body. Out come the Tamiya weathering sets for another round.

Looks better for it, I think. I also rubbed my finger down the space inbetween the rivit lines, to give those bits a slightly cleaner look.

Though I think the roof needs much more.

Not enough clearance

2011-04-24T08:56:00.001+01:00

Pictured is a 63' Mk1 Suburban built from parts by Replica Railways.

And also pictured is the non-existant clearance that I provided when I laid the track.

Relaying is in need, methinks. So that's the main platform road piece, a point, a catch point and the bay to be relaid. Oh well. It keeps me off the street.

Weathering too far? (part 1)

2011-04-21T17:30:00.002+01:00

If you're an American, please assist me.

I took out my Tamiya "make up" weathering packs (This sort of thing for those thinking otherwise).

And I weathered my two boxcars bought at the weekend with several layers. Unfortunately, my hands also got rather weathered.

But the main thing I want to ask is "are these weather too much or not enough"? They look alright to my eye, but then again I wasn't around America in the 40's to check.

However, I have noticed (especially from the photos) the doors need more weathering. As do the rooves...

Review: Yardmaster AAR 40' Maine Central boxcar kit

2011-04-17T18:49:00.001+01:00

Protoype Information:
Owner: Maine Central

Make/Model: AAR 40' Boxcar

Built/Bought by Maine Central RR: 1942

Number: 6158

Model Information:
Stock number: 8009
Manufacturer: Branchline Trains

Scale: HO
Cost: £7.50 (RRP $15)
Bought from: Trader at Sutton Coldfield Exhibition
Couplings: Magnetic Knuckle couplers

First Impressions

The boxart is extremely attractive, most of it coming from a photo of real life trains. Also, the sticker on the box also gives some prototype history.

Once opening the box, I was amazed to find all the detail comes pre-printed.

Paperwork

A single sided A4 sheet folder 4 times contains an exploded diagram and assembly instructions.

Parts

The photo to the right shows the box contents (sans instructions). One boxcar body, one roof (ladder section I've already assembled), one sprue with the ends, one sprue with the underframe ribbing/detail, another sprue with the doors and details, and a bag containing the bogies and couplings.

Some parts of the kit came with some extra flash; this was swiftly dispensed with a file.

Hidden behind a cardboard flap are 2 nuts to increase the model's weight.

Assembly (body)

Becuase the hard work (the main body) is already done, it's a simple matter of attatching the parts to the body and then subsequent appendages on those parts.

I started with the ends and underframe first, these being important to be sited right. The decorated/detailed ends slot into holes in the body ends, though one end has 4 whereas the other has 5; be wary.

The underframe needed to be trimmed vary carefully. The side ribs were slightly too long, though this was due to the way I removed them from the sprue.

One those 3 items were out the way, I next turned to the doors. These can be made to be working or glued into position. I wanted mine working, and I found matching the door to the internal 'mechanism' or 'runner' was better than the other way around.

Assembly (underframe)

After completing the main parts, leaving only the roof, attentioned turned to the underframe. The couplings come 'springed' and only need to be placed in the coupling boxes and the retaining plate glued in.

I reduced the coupling box length down on the section extending outside the boxcar end with some filing to ensure smooth operation. I also cut the retaining plate down slightly so the garish red plastic it was moulded in wasn't so noticable from the ends.

The bogie assembly is simply the insertion of the wheelsets into the bogie frames. I found one axle needed to have one wheel removed and the axle filed so the wheels were the correct distance apart. I also found one axle needed the ends lightly filing to ensure nice smooth operation.

The plastic bag contains two screws; these are provided for other kit assemblies. I found this out when I tried screwing the bogies in to find the screw hole wasn't big enough; instead, the sprue with the door has two pins which glue in to retain the bogies in place. Ensure that there's some slop in the bogies to cope for uneven or gradiated track so they don't 'lock' up.

Finishing off

Before the glue finished drying, I used another boxcar brought from the same trader for a height test - it was perfect. The 'pipe' on the couplings was at the right height (AFAIK) and the boxcar ran very smoothly.

The roof was test fitted for the photo; looks good next to the commercial one behind it, in my opinion.

Rather sneakily, I discovered that the kit contains 2 rather large nuts hidden at one end of the box by a cardboard flap. They should be glued down ontop of 2 circular 'polo' style lumps (one each end) on the boxcar interior. Clever!

Sutton Coldfield Railway Society Exhibition - An analysis

2011-04-17T13:42:00.001+01:00

The Site
The site is fairly easy to find, though the exhibition isn't well signposted like others. The school still has a love affair with stone chippings, but at least most of the parking is on tarmac.

The Refreshments
Hot drinks, sandwhiches and plenty of cakes & sweets and the like were for sale. I only purchased a can of Sprite and a kit-kat, to the pricely sum of £1. Plenty of seating available.

The Stands
Plenty of variety, both old and new stock, and a big plus: Squires was here! Also, a good bookstand which I happily parted my monies with...

The Layouts
Moderate variety of scales/gauges (009, HO, OO, N), though predominantly British. Though there was an extremely nice American layout which I was happy to spend a few minutes watching.

And what did you get?
Plenty. The biggest purchase was 2 books from the book stand, one by John Ahern on scenery construction, and another on the line drawings for steam locos.

Rolling stock wise, I purchased 2 kits for American HO Boxcars. One made up and another still in pieces. I know, I promised myself not to buy any more...but they were so nice and...well...it's seemed a waste NOT to buy them. Expect a post within a few days to highlight me building the kit.

And lastly, I bought a file from Squires and a pack of wagon sheets and some churns from the club stand.

Computer Upgrading (part 2)

2011-04-16T09:20:00.002+01:00

So much for upgrading. After removing all the IDE cables and the front panel connectors (save, of course, the reset/power buttons and HDD light) and I tried to boot it up. Still no luck.

So, I try swapping the super 600W power supply with the old measly 300W or so one. Hey presto, it lives! Check the BIOS, modify the date (which had reset to 2008!) and reboot it. And Windows blue screens and the computer reboots.

Try removing a RAM stick and it does the same thing. So swapped the RAM with the old stuff and it comes up with no problems.

So...the RAM won't work with it and neither will the new power supply. Not a happy bunny. Oh well, the RAM has found a new home in the family PC downstairs.

Maybe I should upgrade the motherboard too.....well, I also took the oppertunity and upgraded the DVD Drive to SATA as well, though keeping the old IDE Drive in there too.

Computer upgrading (part 1)

2011-04-15T21:04:00.000+01:00

Well, title is sufficient.

Take one mega-expensive(ish) order of a new case, 600W power supply, 4GB of RAM and a couple of extra fans (so I can put another on at a later point in time) and I'll have something to play with...for a while, anyway. The case was removed from it's box first to acertain the process of putting the new parts in.

First things first, and I need to take apart the old case to remove the motherboard and the SATA cable; the hard drive had already been removed to upload some old school photos to Facebook using a caddy - stuff using a memory stick!

That was the easy stuff done.

Next, the motherboard needed to be screwed in, prior to the new PSU. Fun ang games unsured when trying to get the risers screwed in and wouldn't stay upright....

But after a little while, the motherboard was in, the PSU was in....and it was then I realised the tightwads who'd put the case together hadn't included any screws for putting in extra fans, despite putting in 4 extra spaces in the case, excluding the one that came pre-fitted. So now I have 2 fans in with 2 screws each....

So next came the hard disk, floppy and CD drives and their associated cabling. And then came the front panel wiring.

And then all was connected. Cables were tied and tidied up, and the whole lot reassembled and connected to a monitor and the mains.

Pushed the power button. Nothing. Re-did the cables for the front panel buttons and light and it lit up...briefly.

Removed some RAM. No change. Tried this, tried that. Still no change. Removed the 4-pin connector on the motherboard. SUCCESS! LIFE!

Though nothing on the monitor. Hmmm. Time for problem shooting. But not tonight.

Spelt Vs Spelled

2011-04-09T11:39:00.002+01:00

The wonderful things about forums is the wonderful breed of people they attract.
Spread all over the world, the members of the STO Forum "Ten Forward" can get into
debates over the most tiniest of things. Bacon. Bunnies. And local dialect.

Apparently, the word "spelt" is not taught in some countries. Huh.
It's interchangable with "spelled", though it seems not many people will know the former.

I wonder what else they don't know about....